It is always a delicate balance between allowing the garlic to mature to their fullest and going too far.
Lifting the garlic too early will result in undersized bulbs that won’t store well. Harvesting too late and you risk the bulbs splitting through their skins leaving them unprotected and unable to withstand long term storage.
I like to wait until at least the two lower leaves turn brown before harvesting. Each leaf indicates a layer of protective paper wrapped around the bulb. For example, a garlic plant with 8 leaves will have 8 layers of bulb wrappers. The leaves grow from the bottom up, so the ones at the bottom are older and begin to brown first as the bulb reaches maturity. Stop watering the garlic bed when the leaves begin turning brown and wait for a dry period to dig up the bulbs.
I use a digging fork to carefully loosen the soil beneath the bulbs, then pull them up by their stalks and shake off the soil. I grow hardneck garlic and the stalks are pretty solid. If you grow softneck varieties, you want to dig the bulbs out carefully as pulling from the stalks may tear them. Try not to bruise the bulbs.
After harvesting, the garlic is spread out in the shade to dry a bit before bringing it into the basement to cure. We run a dehumidifier in the basement in the summer and I discovered that this is the perfect environment or curing garlic. It is dark, cool, and dry. Alternatively, garlic can be hung in bundles in a ventilated shed or barn as long as there is good airflow and protection from direct sunlight.
Curing allows the layers to dry out forming a protective cover around the bulb. Curing can take a month or more, depending on the humidity level.
When the garlic is fully cured and all the foliage is dry and crunchy, I like to take the bundles back outside to trim and clean up the bulbs. The stems are cut cleanly an inch or two from the bulb. The cut area is inspected carefully to be sure the garlic has cured completely. There should be no green at the center. The roots are trimmed and the bulb is brushed with my fingers to release any additional soil still clinging to the papery skin. Sometimes, the outer wrapper flakes off. This is ok, but I try not to damage the protective wrappers any further than the first layer.
The trimmed bulbs are stored loosely in a basket in a cool, dark, and dry location. Come fall, the basket is pulled out and the largest bulbs with the largest cloves are selected and planted for the following year (See How to Plant Garlic in Fall). The rest of the cured bulbs are enjoyed all winter. Different strains and varieties of garlic have different storage lives, Our garlic usually lasts until April before it begins to sprout.
What to do if your garlic sprouts?
If you have garlic in storage come spring, there is good chance that it may begin to sprout as your storage area warms. Here are several ways you can put it to good use:
- Plant Sprouted Garlic: Let the garlic cloves grow and enjoy green garlic shoots, or let the cloves mature to small green garlic. You can plant sprouted garlic cloves in the garden, or in pots. See How to Plant Garlic in Spring.
- Make Garlic Powder: Make your own, shelf stable garlic powder by dehydrating and grinding garlic cloves. See Homemade Garlic Powder.
- Roast and Freeze Garlic: Roasted garlic can be substituted in any recipe that calls for garlic. See How to Roast Garlic.
You May Also Like:
- 14 Crops for Winter Food Storage
- How to Plant Garlic
- 10 Garlic Scape Recipes
- How to Grow a Salsa Garden
- Zucchini Garlic Bites Recipe
Good planning is key to a successful vegetable garden.
Whether you are new to growing your own food or have been growing a vegetable garden for years, you will benefit from some planning each year. You will find everything you need to organize and plan your vegetable garden in my PDF eBook, Grow a Good Life Guide to Planning Your Vegetable Garden.
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